Tomima Unplugged Women's Lingerie

Conical-Shaped Breasts – Are They Making a Comeback?

According to some recent articles in London, there is an attempt by several designers to bring back the look of the pointy bra. Designers Jean Paul Gaultier, Dolce & Gabbana, and Louise Goldin all featured outerwear with cone-shaped breasts on the bodices of several of their pieces for their Spring/Summer ’10 collections.

There is actually some interesting history here. The first conical shaping of breasts was in the 50’s shortly after WWII.  The poster girls for that era included Jane Russell and Marilyn Monroe.  The second upswing in popularity came in the late 80’s with Madonna’s ‘Blonde Ambition’ Tour, where she wore costumes designed by Jean-Paul Gaultier that had extreme cone shapes over her breasts.

So, with these two events, the British are extrapolating that since both happened immediately after a recession (WWII and the Wall Street Crash of 1987), we are now due for a repeat of this same fashion trend.

Are they nuts?  I think so.  First we need to understand that the bra as we know it today was first designed in the 1950’s by a man – Howard Hughes.  Of course, men would think our breasts are shaped this way and make a garment with cones for breasts!  Fortunately, women stepped in and got the shape right.  Then, Madonna comes along and wears this ridiculous cone shape in a concert, and we are to embrace this as a trend?

Personally, I think the Brits are grasping here. Maybe a woman with very little breast tissue might find this a fun fad, but anyone with a good-size cup is not going to buy into this one.

That said, we do get phone calls every once in a while asking which bras we carry at HerRoom that give a pointed silhouette.  And, I will tell you that most calls asking this are from men who like to wear ladies lingerie.  But, if you happen to like this silhouette, the Fantasie Belle 6010 and Goddess Longline 689 are two good choices.

This isn’t the first time Marilyn Monroe’s bra has been in the news–last summer a bra custom-made for Marilyn Monroe sold at auction for over $5000.


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1 Comment

  • Reply
    Petra Bellejambes
    November 11, 2009 at 11:23 am

    Dear Tomima.

    A terrific and welcomed post. Yes I have been seeing some of the same silhouettes and breathless commentary about bullet bras from the commentariat, and have a couple of thoughts on the matter.

    The designers who start the trends tumbling downhill surely into our closets are motivated in part by doing something different than last year. Change being at the heart of creativity. Change is clearly at the heart of commerce too. From short to long, from natural to de-natured, from round and soft, to hard and angular we go and hope we can find a good parking spot at the mall.

    Bullet bras and the resulting Russell-esque shapes will be seen in greater numbers for a while yes, but I suspect always near cameras and stages, catwalks and nightclubs. Boudoirs too I suppose for women and men both who like a little playful time and perhaps have a sense of nostalgia for an era they missed barely or by decades. God bless the girlfriends and wives who are willing to humour their spouses for a few uncomfortable hours.

    I suspect that most of the men that inquire of your personnel about conical brassieres are possessed a little by that nostalgia, and perhaps a desire to feature the campier and less flattering aspects of “drag”, rather than the sincerely admiring and envious “femulations” undertaken by the vast majority of periodic cross dressers.

    Speaking as one of the sincere latter, the search for comfort, support and prettiness remains paramount. I look for bras that contain my breast forms well, and disappear beneath by dresses leaving only the most setting appropriate and flattering figure lines up front. The objective of many, if not most cross dressersng to attain the feeling of blending in and being. Not standing out and being seen.

    Thanks, sincere thanks, for your many blog posts. They have helped me be a smarter consumer of foundation garments of all types. Any time you have any thoughts or advice for the studious cross dresser or committed transgender, I would love to see them here. I can assure you that a surprising number of your current readers will be happy to see themselves respectfully addressed.

    Fond regards ,


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