Tomima - Lingerie and Underwear Expert

Finding a bra you love only to discover its size range stops just before your bra size can be frustrating. However, in some circumstances, you may not be totally out of luck.

Say you’re a 40C and the bra you have found stops at 38DD. You MIGHT be able to wear the 38D or 38DD in that bra if the band doesn’t feel too tight. Deviating from your traditional bra size is called the cup size game. Substituting bra sizes really works more successfully on women with band sizes 40 and above and D cups or larger because there is more breast tissue and body circumference to work with - a 2" band increase or a 1" bust line circumference increase is less significant than on a smaller framed person. But, smaller framed women also have way more bra choices.

There are 2 important things you need to know about cup size. The first is that a cup size on one band size is not equal to the same cup size on another band size. In other words, a 32D bra has smaller cup volume and diameter than a 34D bra even though both bra sizes are a D cup. So I bet you’re wondering why the industry assigns the same cup size to both.

Cup size is a measurement of how far your breasts project from your chest wall. Each cup size denotes a 1" increase in your body’s CIRCUMFERENCE measurement at your bust line. Knowing this fact can help you zero in on your correct bra size. For example, you try on a bra and the band feels comfortable, but your breasts are spilling out. Keep going up in cup sizes on the same band size until you find the bra that fits. Alternately, the cups fit great, but the band is too big. When you go down a band size, you now know that you need to go up a cup size to maintain the same underwire diameter and similar cup volume (Example: Go from a 40C to a 38D).

The second important point about cup size pertains to women with cup sizes larger than a D cup. Trying to find cup equivalents among brands can be very difficult. In one brand you are a DDDD, but this same cup size can be a G, F, or FF in other brands. The first thing you should know is that all manufacturers size their cups up by 1" circumference increases. They may call their sizing by different letters, but the increases between sizes are uniform. So, as mentioned above, find out how many cup sizes above a D you are. At HerRoom.com, when you look at the sizes available in a particular bra, HerRoom displays the cup sizes in order from smallest to largest. If you are 4 cup sizes larger than a D cup, you can count 4 sizes from D to find your correct size in that particular brand. Again, it doesn’t matter what the cup size letter is. Just make sure you count the right number of sizes above their D and you will have the right size.

 When a manufacturer grades his patterns to create different sizes for a bra style, he moves the bust points slightly wider with each cup size increase. B cup bust points are 1/2" farther apart than A cups. Bust points get 1/4" farther apart between B, C and D cups, and 1/8" farther apart with larger cup sizes. Now that I’ve shared the cup size game with you, I want to make a final point. It is always best to purchase your true and accurate bra size if you want to maximize your proper fit.

Have you ever bought an underwire bra in your size and felt like the underwires didn’t fit right? This posting is to help you understand bra underwires and how they are designed, selected and ultimately sewn into your bras.Let’s begin with some basic geometry. Breasts, for the most part, are shaped like orbs. They have a diameter and a projection. When selecting your cup size (e.g. B, DD, G, etc.) you’re basically choosing a size that addresses your breast projection — how far out from your body your breasts project.

Your breast diameter measurement, on the other hand, is already predetermined by the manufacturer who makes your bra. Your band size (32, 38, 42 etc) has a pre-determined breast diameter built into it in the form of an underwire. That’s right, manufacturers determine your breast diameter whether you like it or not, when they decide on the underwire that will be sewn into your bra. And all lingerie manufacturers pretty much follow the same sizing conventions with regard to diameters. As a side note, augmented breasts tend to have a wider diameter than their natural counterparts. This is why many augmented women tend to wear larger cup sizes than they thought they would wear - it’s to get the correct fit with a wider underwire.

So, now that you know this, you can understand why changing your band size will also change your breast fit. And here’s another industry secret. Manufacturers use the same underwire in different bra sizes. This is done to reduce the number of different underwires they need to work with., but it also makes sense. Remember, your cup size is determining your projection. A woman with a larger band size, but with the same projection should also have the same diameter - in theory. Here’s an example to explain how all of this works. Suppose you are a 36C. The industry has quantified over the years that your projection is the same measurement as a woman who is a 32DD, 34D, 38B and a 40A. So, most of the time, these bra sizes will all have the same underwire sewn into them. This makes sense when you consider what you do with weight fluctuation. If you are in a 36C and the cups fit, but the band is too tight, the correct size change would be to go up a band size to a 38 and down a cup size to a B to maintain the same cup volume. After all, your girth changed; not your breast diameter.

I put this chart together to guide you in all of this. So, the next time you feel you need to change your bra size, stop and think about what needs to change. If it’s just your band, consult with this chart to find the next size you should consider moving to.

Underwire shapes can and do vary among brands and manufacturers. In fact, many feel their underwire grading and shaping choices are the trade secret to their fit. This is why you’ll find slight underwire variations among manufacturers (however they will not tell you or us what they are). This explains why one manufacturer may fit you better than another.

Underwires also have different lengths - their curve will follow the same size circle, but, like a pie chart, the diameter length can vary. For example, demi cup bras, balconette bras, bras labeled "petite" and low-plunge bra styles generally have shorter wires. If you are short in stature, this is good to know, because a shorter wire will have a less chance of poking you under your arm since these wires do not come up as high. Strapless bras tend to have the longest underwires, and for good reason. Without strap support, a strapless bra requires more wire to circle around the breast in order to give proper support and keep the bra up.

Now that you understand underwire sizing, you can understand why underwire swimsuits with just a cup size like a "C" don’t fit all C cup women. And, for you analytical types who are probably wondering, when underwires are graded to create their different sizes, the diameter increase is approximately 3/8" and the underwire length increase is approximately 5/8". Underwires are also engineered to have some spring. Once a bra is fastened, horizontal pressure is exerted on the underwires so that they splay or spread. Then, when a bra is unhooked, the underwires return to their original shape. This springing or splay gives additional support to your breasts by exerting inward pressure on them - like a gentle squeeze. If you are in the wrong size bra such that your breasts are wider than the splayed diameter of the underwire, over time the pressure and weight of your breasts can cause an underwire to break in half. If this happens to your frequently, you are probably in a bra with too small of a band size, or one where the cups are too small.

I appreciate that learning all of this may be a little overwhelming. But, you should also know that manufacturers work very hard to get you the best fit possible and try and make your size selection easy. However, it’s always nice to know the logic behind what they do.

There’s a fairly new phrase that’s popped into our vernacular: back fat. When a woman is walking away from you, and the back of her shirt is bumpy because her skin isn’t laying smoothly, this is considered back fat. Bras are the major contributor to this unattractive look. But the right fitting bra can also be the solution.

There are several reasons for back fat. The first is not wearing your bra correctly. Many women put their bra on by putting their arms through the straps and fastening the bra in back. However, they forget the final step - pulling the bra back down so that it anchors under your shoulder blades. Left unadjusted, the back will creep up pushing your back skin up with it and back fat occurs. Another reason for back fat is wearing a bra with a band size that is too large. That’s right. Contrary to what you may think, back fat is created when your band isn’t tight enough. This means your bra back will creep up and push your back skin with it. The proper bra band size will anchor the back of your bra keeping it in place and giving your back a smooth look. IF the wings and back of your bra are too skimpy, this too can cause back fat.  Wider sides and back are more flattering under fitted clothes and create less bulge.  I know, it looks too "granny."  But, who’s going to know but you?  I’d rather have a wide back on my bra and no back fat, than some skimpy bra that leaves bulges. .Finally, back fat is created with age. As we get older our skin becomes less firm. And, with additional weight gain, our skin tissue becomes soft and spongy. Consequently any form-fitting garment we wear will create some indentation on our back.

I have a couple ideas for us older women. First, consider wearing one of the new shapewear camisoles instead of your bra. They are a great solution in that they give you support and smoothness all the way down past your waist. A couple of great choices:

	This is the Flexees One Fabulous Body Everyday Control Camisole. The reviews have been very favorable with several D cup women finding the support acceptable enough to be worn without a bra. For firmer control, this is a winner. Again, the reviews are raves and even from D cup size women who wear this camisole without a bra.
	The Nancy Ganz Sleek Underneath Camisole is a long-standing favorite, even with D-cup sized women. The cup area of the camisole is actually molded, so it provides support without that smushed-together look. It also receives rave reviews at HerRoom for comfort and a fresh, clean style.
	This camisole from TC Fine Shapewear is also another winner with great reviews. Unlike the others, this Seamless Firm Control Camisole 444 has a built-in shelf bra for added support, and has a gripper edge along the bottom to prevent creep.

HerRoom takes "before/after" shots of all it’s firm control shapewear to show you what kind of control and smoothness to expect. You can see from the images, that this camisole gives great lift and support to your bust, pulls in your tummy, and smooths your sides

There is a company out there that specializes in creating undergarments to eliminate back fat. They are called Sassybax. Started by a former model, the Sassybax line includes a bra, a strapless bra and two camisole styles (with and without underwires). There are no openings on any of these garments, so they are stepped into and pulled up. The back is very smooth. This comes in sizes S to XL. However, I don’t recommend it for women above a C cup because the support just isn’t there.

The Spanx company has recently launched a new bra called the Bra-llelujah. The claim is that their non-adjusting straps will remove any signs of back fat. However, the jury is still out on this one.  So far, several D cup women have complained in our reviews that there is a lack of support.