I’m the first to raise my hand and say that bra sizing is confusing and convoluted.  It’s one of the reasons women find themselves in the wrong size bra.  In an effort to sort this all out and reduce the number of bra sizes on the market, Hanesbrands has stepped up and created a new sizing technology that they claim will replace multiple current sizes with one size.

The goal, according to Hanes, is to make it easier for shoppers to buy bras while also providing superior comfort and a better fit.  They feel their goal has been met with a new ‘breakthrough’ fit technology.

Their proprietary bra technology called "Smart Sizes" will be rolling out this fall under their Hanes and Barely There brands.  It is a series of floating and flexible bra frames that lets the bra mold to the shape of the wearer.  And it does this with just 5 bra sizes rather than the traditional 16 cup/band sizes.

“Smart Sizes is a very big concept that revolutionizes how women fit and buy their bras,” according to Sandy Waitz, vice president of intimate apparel design and development for Hanesbrands. “With the flexible fit properties of Smart Sizes, women can find a bra that literally molds to their individual shapes, including unique fit challenges such as between sizes and unevenly sized breasts.”

Okay, here is where my enthusiasm wanes.  The five Smart sizes are extra small, small, medium, large and extra large.  And these five sizes will replace the traditional size range of 30A through 42C. 

Though I wish it weren’t so, I’m afraid this new breakthrough could be a bust.  Sure, less sizing means less choices when trying to figure out your size.  Retailers will like only having to stock 5 sizes instead of 16.  But I need to see and try on this product to really get on board with this new sizing technology. 

Hanesbrand claims they don’t need that many sizes because the bra somehow will mold and custom fit to your individual shape.  Hearing this, my mind races to a picture of me being ’shrink-wrapped.’  We all know that when we find our correct bra size, we look terrific.  I can’t help but wonder if these blended sizes will still give that crisp supported look, or more of a shelf-bra or bathing suit look where if you’re falling out or the fabric gaps a little, you’re supposed to assume that’s as good as it gets.

Find Hanes and Barely There lingerie at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras
Panties

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Like eyebrows, our breasts are not identical.  Usually, one is smaller than the other, and it tends to be the one closest to the hand we most often use.  For some of us, the difference is not that obvious.  But for many women, the difference has caused a life-long issue with bras not fitting perfectly.

The simple solution has been to fit a bra to your larger breast, and then purchase some type of pad that can be slipped into the cup with the smaller breast to even out your look and remove the wrinkles in the bra.  But now, there is a new solution.

Fruit of the Loom has just announced its "Pick Your Perfect Pair" Bra.  Think about a front closure bra and a back closure bra.   With both closures, you have two bra parts.  That is the essence of this bra – it has a front and back closure, so you purchase each side of your bra in the size you need.

This bra will come in sizes 34-36 in B cups, 34-38 in C cups, and 38-40 in D cups.  Then, each of these cup sizes has a corresponding "just about" cup size.  So, for example, you would select a 36C for one side, and a "just about" or JA36C for the smaller side.  The regular size side is a lined underwire cup.  The "JA" side is also underwire but also has  a bump pad to help even you out.

Each side will sell for $8.  The current offering comes in white and black, and some polka-dot prints.  Though the front closure is not adjustable, the back closure will have 5 hook & eye adjustments.

Kudos to FOTL for coming up with this idea.  But I have my doubts about their marketing.  They are skewing towards a young audience (teens and early 20’s).  I think the woman who would be interested in this is more mature.  And she’s going to want nude – not black and white.  There is also going to be possible confusion in the selection of the sides.  Not only are there two sizes for every bra, but you also must pick a "left" and a "right" side.  This could become a merchandising nighmare! 

Suddently, just sticking a small pad in one side seems like a pretty good solution here.

Find fruit of the Loom bras at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

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Many in the lingerie business are familiar with the name June Kenton.  Since 1960,  Ms. Kenton has been the official bra-maker/bra-fitter to Queen Elizabeth II, working out of her Rigby & Peller lingerie boutique in London.

This month, Ms. Kenton announced her retirement.  And with that, she revealed a rather interesting point-of-view–it seems that she was extremely nervous the first time:

"Can you imagine what it was like? Most people first meet the Queen when she’s wearing an evening dress, but not me!"

Ms. Kenton has also fitted such notable women as Margaret Thatcher, Gwyneth Paltrow and Lady Gaga.  And Susan Nethero, the self-proclaimed "Bra Whisperer," claims on her resume to have spent time with Ms. Kenton learning how to fit bras.

Congratulations to Ms. Kenton.  Your years of bra fitting have helped to uplift some of the most important women in recent history.

Check out HerRoom’s bra-fitting guide–you don’t have to be a queen to have a perfect fit!

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The average bra size used to be a 34B in America.  In fact, when I need a sample of a new bra style, what size arrives?  Yes, a 34B.  Everyone in the bra industry still uses this size as the norm. But over the last 10 years, the average bra size has been climbing. 

Ten years ago, when I started in this business, I was informed that the new average bra size was a 36C.  Well, it is now being reported that today’s median bra size in the US is 36DD – that’s an increase of 2 cup sizes.

I’m happy to say that the bra industry has seen this trend coming.  I’ve noticed that many traditional manufacturers, like Wacoal for example, have increased their cup size range.  You can now purchase many of their bras in a G cup (which is the same as a DDDD cup).  The brand Olga actually revamped their entire bra size range two years ago.  Their products now start with a C cup and go up – no more B and A cup sizes.

As the need for larger cup sizes grows, I really do wish we could standardize how these cup sizes are named.  You may not know this, but many manufacturers could be calling your cup size by other letters.  For instance, some manufacturers refer to a DD as an E cup, a DDD as an F cup and so on.

For those of you needing help deciphering all the variations for your cup size,  I’ve tried to make it easy by creating our size conversion chart.  Simply find your column, and you now have your cup size in every bra brand available.

Find all cup sizes at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

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An interesting article was posted in the United Kingdom Telegraph recently.  A London consumer watchdog group called Which? sent eleven mystery shopping women with cup sizes of DD or larger to 70 stores in the high street area to see how well they would be fitted in bras by the so-called experts in each store.

The results?  Only 29% of the bras sold to these women were rated as a ‘good fit.’  But even then, none of the eleven women felt the service they were provided at any of the stores warranted a recommendation.

Many of the women from the watchgroup were sold wildly different sizes.  For one of the women,  two different shops had fit her in bras that differed in cup sizes by 7 sizes.  Another went to the same store in two different locations–one sold her a 34C, the other a 34F.

Now, I have written on this before.  Yes, there are hard-working bra fitters out there who do a very good job of getting women into the proper bra size.  Unfortunately, it’s hard to know which are good and which are not.  And, keep in mind, that if they can convince you that you are a different size than what you walked in wearing, they can probably talk you into buying several new bras. The temptation is simply too great to get you into a different size – especially if the fitter is working for a commission or piece of the sale.

I have said this before, so I’ll gladly say this again.  I think we women are smart enough to figure out what size we are with a better understanding of bra sizing and how to translate your fitting symptoms into size changes.

I’ve spent hours researching and writing about bra sizing. Simply go to the HerRoom Bra Fitting Advice section located at the bottom of each page of HerRoom.com.  There are over 40 pages that I hope will answer any questions you may have on how a great-fitting bra should look and feel.

Read earlier posts about proper bra fitting and about understanding cup sizes.

Find bras at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

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I was in a boutique on Rodeo Drive years ago, and trying on a pair of pumps.  The sales person remarked on how fabulous my toe cleavage looked.  What? I thought.  Toe cleavage?  Well, now I’m in the bra business, and breast cleavage is a constant topic.  Women and men have differing options on what is attractive breast cleavage.

Let’s first define cleavage.  In general, cleavage refers to a separation or division of form.  In science, it’s the process where a cell divides into two cells after mitosis.  In geology, it’s the partial opening caused after a split or rupture.  And, in politics, it’s when there is a split within the political system along ideological or ethnic lines.  But, when it comes to a woman’s body, our culture defines cleavage as the exposed area between a woman’s breasts.

 Bra manufacturers work very hard to give women separation between their breasts. They mostly design bras with a center panel that lays against a woman’s sternum.  But, there are also a lot of women walking around with D cup size breasts and larger wearing low necklines that expose breasts touching one another.  And it is this look that men tend to favor.  So, how is this look achieved?

 By way of example, Felicia, one of our buyers’ assistants, agreed to take one for the team and posed with a couple of different bra sizes to show you what I’m talking about.  Before being fitted in our office, Felicia was walking around wearing a size 44D.  Now, most women would think this bra fit her correctly.  But, as you can see from the front and top down view, her breasts are touching one another.

After a proper fitting, Felicia was found to be a 40G. In these two photographs, you can see her breasts are separated, and the center of  the bra rests on her sternum.  Felicia agreed that the new size was more comfortable and flattering to wear, but commented that her husband preferred the look of her breasts in the size 44D.  By-the-way, Felicia is wearing the Le Mystere 9155 in both of these photos.

So, here’s the rub. Do women really want separation? Or do they want that line of cleavage that men like to look at?  I think the answer is both.  I then sent Felicia through our catalog to try and find a bra in her correct size that would give the same look to her breasts as her 44D.  The closest she could find was this Panache 3606.  In this photo she is wearing a size 38G with a bra extender on the back because this bra did not come in a 40 band size. The reviews by customers about this bra are mixed – some love it, and many 32 band size women don’t.  I can sympathize with Panache.  In order to get a low plunge in front, they must have larger cups to give support – otherwise women will complain about falling out.  But now, women are complaining that they don’t like the shape of the bra!

Here’s my suggestion for a solution.  For women wanting that cleavage line (and are a D cup or larger), first look at the plunge bras available in your size.  There are several on the market that do a great job such as the Panache bra,  the Prima Donna Menton Plunge 016-1564,and the Felina Jennifer Deep Plunge Bra 29885.  Also, if you have implants and thus don’t need the support of a bra, you could wear a NuBra and attach the clasp to pull your breasts in.  Finally, if you really want that look, go up a band size and down 1 cup size in your bra and see if you get the desired look.  In Felicia’s example, she went up two band sizes and down 3 cup sizes to get her look.  Again, this is not a bra size you would want to wear all day, but if you want this look for a special outfit or evening, it’s something to consider until a bra manufacturer actually makes a bra that gives women this cleavage look.

Before signing off, I need to comment to the C cup and smaller women that this cleavage look is almost impossible to obtain for you.  I for one am a C cup, and my breasts have never touched regardless of the push up and cleavage enhancing bras I have tried on.  I just don’t have enough breast tissue. The closest I’ve come is with a NuBra. But take heart; as any full figured woman will tell you, we get to wear a lot more variety of clothing styles and look good in it.  So, it really is a trade off.

Find plunge bras at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

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There’s the old saying that we all put on our pants one leg at a time.  However, when it comes to bras, this is not the case.  Over the years, we women have come up with a couple of clever techniques for putting this uniquely feminine garment in its proper place.

The Hook and Spin Method:

This way of putting on a bra is the most common among women with smaller breast and who also have a small or average waist.  Also, women who have dexterity issues find this method simpler as well. Simply put, you wrap your bra around your back and hook it in front of you.  You then turn your bra either clockwise, or counterclockwise (depending on the way the label is sewn so as not to bunch up) until the two cups are underneath your breasts.  Adjust your bra band so that it is directly under your breasts, and the underwires are properly placed in your breast crease, then slip your shoulder straps up onto your shoulders.

Though your bra is on, you are not done.  There are a couple more steps that you need to do to insure you have your bra in the proper position so that it will remain comfortable throughout the day and give you proper support.  Run your finger under the back hook to make sure the label of your bra, if there is one, is laying flat.  Tug down on the back of the bra while looking in the mirror to make sure the front and back of your bra are parallel with the floor, and that the bra back is tucked just under your shoulder bones.  Next, bend forward at the waist and with your right hand, go under you left breast and lift it into the bra cup.  Then repeat this on your right side.  Look inside your cups and make sure your nipples are front and center.  If you have a seamed cup, make sure your nipple is directly behind the seam.  This will help reduce nipple show-through.  Now, stand up and look at yourself.  If you are happy where everything is, you are good to go.

The Upside Down Hook and Spin Method:

This method is almost the same as the prior method with the exception of the start.  You fasten your bra in front of you, but your bra is upside down and inside out.  After spinning your bra around so that the cups are in the center, you now flip your bra up to put it in place and then follow all the same steps as above.  This technique is a great one for today’s contour bras that already have pre-shaped cups.  It prevents the cups from getting smashed or creased before putting your bra on.  If you haven’t put your bra on this way before, it may take a few tries to get it right, but once you learn to hook your bra inside out in front of you, it’s a very simple method to use.

Front Loading Method:

Large breasted women, women with apple figures, soft cup bra wearers and women in a hurry tend to use this technique to put on their bra.  You begin by putting your arms through the straps of your bra, you then hold the back wings of the bra in each hand and wrap your arms behind you to hook your bra together.  Once the bra is hooked, you really need to bend forward at the waist and place your breasts into your cups to make sure they are centered and pulled up into the cups before standing up.  Again, a check in the mirror should be made to make sure the back of your bra is pulled down and even with the front of your bra,  your tags are flat, and your breasts are up and in your cups. If you have cup seams, you should make sure they are resting on top of your nipples to reduce nipple show though.

An important note here. This technique can be very challenging for women who are not limber enough to put their two hands behind their back.  So, as we get older, this technique will become harder.  It is also difficult to tell if the bra is on the proper closure without checking in the mirror.

 For modesty reasons, many women use this front loading technique because it immediately covers your breasts. I know that I use it when I’m in a dressing room and the sales clerk can be heard coming down the hall. But when using this technique it is also very easy to not get your breasts correctly into the cups and have the back of your bra resting too high on your back.  So, this technique more than the others needs the final steps to insure proper fit.

Over the years, I have heard lingerie experts state that the Hook and Spin method wears down your bra. The thinking is that the spinning process on your body breaks down the elastic and causes your bra to age more quickly. I think this is absolute nonsense  Our bras are not designer gowns that need to be preserved for our daughters.  They are underwear that will go through many washings and wearing before being replaced. The convenience of the Hook and Spin method far outweighs any minor stress put on the elastic as you spin it around your waist.

A note on underwire bras.  However you put it on, you must make sure to check that your underwires are resting in the natural crease where your breast begins on your chest. The underwire should be resting on your ribcage. If your underwire is resting on breast tissue, your breasts need to be pulled up and into your bra cups until this is not the case.  If you can’t do this, you are in the wrong size bra.

I would also be remiss if I did not speak of "The Jiggle" technique for getting your breasts into the proper place in your bra cups.  I personally use this technique more than putting my hands inside my cups to adjust my breast tissue.  To perform the jiggle, bend forward from your waist, pull down on the center of your bra and jiggle your bra back and forth until you feel your breasts are resting appropriately in the cups. When you stand up, you will see that your breasts are sitting higher in your cups, are fuller looking and look more youthful.

Find bras at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

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The Oprah Winfrey Show enjoys finding personalities and having them run the show while Oprah sits on stage and listens.  The first was Dr. Phil.  Lately, it’s been Trinny Woodall and Susannah Constantine, two English women with frank yet funny delivery who share what not to wear and how to accentuate your assets to full advantage.

This pair recently announced that they are everyone’s bosom buddies and will help you find the support you need through their 10 Breast Tips.  So, here they are along with my take.

1. Get Fitted. - This tip suggests you go to either a trusted friend or professional bra fitter and have yourself measured.  With the right size bra, you won’t have to constantly adjust your bra throughout the day.  My take on this tip is well, Duh!  They are simply stating the obvious.  Everyone says to go get yourself fitted.  You can’t walk into a lingerie store or department these days without being asked if you want a fitting. But I  think a woman should also perform her own analysis of her bra’s fit.  Does she like the way it looks?  Does it feel comfortable?  Simply read my section on symptoms and solutions to help you figure out your own correct bra size.  Remember, not all "professional bra fitters" are accurate or altruistic. For the most part, they are there to sell bras.  I think women are smart enough to figure out their bra size without bringing in reinforcements.  All that is needed is proper guidelines.
2. Emphasize your Ribcage. - This duo feels your ribcage just below your breast is usually the thinnest area of a woman and should be accentuated.  I would agree with this tip, but in order to see it, your breasts have to be in the right location.  The fullest part of your breasts should be positioned midway between your shoulder and elbow. Once you have them in place, your clothing should be altered to better follow your body’s silhouette.  This will give you a slimmer look.
3. If You’ve Got ‘em Flaunt Them. – Tinny and Susannah believe you should not hide breasts, but rather show them off.  I strongly disagree with this statement.  Speak to any woman with size D and larger breasts and she will share with you a history of embarrasement from men (and women) always looking at her breasts.  Unless you want to attract attention, it is best to dress with an emphasis on de-emphasising your breasts.  A minimizer bra will help if you have that pesky front button pulling.  Necklines that draw attention up to your face and away from your breasts are also a good idea. 
4. Buy An Underwire Bra. - Susannah, who claims to be large chested, feels an underwire bra helps push your boobs forward and upward to reduce the risk of looking heavier that you really are.  Actually, an underwire will give your silhouette more definition that a softcup bra.  Softcup bras are kind of a crutch for many women who have been unable to find their correct size.  A soft cup bra is very forgiving and can fit even when it’s not exactly your size.  With an underwire bra, you really have to get your size right or you will be uncomfortable.  However, an underwire bra will give your breasts better shape and more definition.  When walking down a street, I can tell you which women are in underwires and which are in softcups.  It’s all about their breast shape.
5. Boost Your Breasts, Uplift Your Look. – For small breasted women, Trinny recommends getting gel inserts to put in the bottom of your bra to lift your breasts.  I would agree that this was the answer a few years ago.  However, bra manufacturers today have come up with amazing bras with built-in pads called "bump pads."  These pads  lift your breasts and some also have side pads that push your breasts together.  Rather than fooling around with gel pads that can move around, I would suggest investing in one of these newer bras to get the same look without the hassle.
6. Wear Halter Tops With or Without a Bra….If You’re Small-Chested. – These Brits think the angular cut of a halter is attractive and shows off your shoulders and I agree. But by no means forego the bra.  Halters tend to gap when you lean forward and can show off your breasts to the person across the room.  Also, even if you are small chested, your breasts need some support or they’ll tend to sag. A halter, more than any other neckline will point this fact out.  I personally always wear a bra or at least a Nubra when I’m wearing a halter top.
7. Don’t Wear The Same Bra For Years On End . -  I would agree with this tip.   Not only can your body change, but clothing styles change as well from year to year.  A new bra every year helps keep you current and gives you a fresh look with your new clothes.

Wondering were the last 3 tips are?  Well the site stopped after 7.  In closing, my response to all of this is that just because  talk shows declare someone an expert, you should not assume they truly are.  I have seen these women on several shows and they are very entertaining.  But bra fit is serious stuff to most women and, while fashion tips are always welcome,  sound advice only comes from an expert in the field.

You can find extensive sizing and fitting advice in HerRoom’s fitting guide.

Find bras at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

I hear this complaint all the time. "My bra straps keep falling off my shoulders!"  Most think it’s because their shoulders slope too much or they have narrow shoulders.  Both of these could contribute to the problem, but you’ll be surprised to know that there are several additional reasons your straps could be slipping off your shoulders. And most have to do with the way your bra fits.

1. Your straps are not tight enough.  This may seem obvious but many women simply don’t adjust their straps.  Straps are only supposed to support about 10% of your breast’s weight.  But they need to be providing some support or they will just fall off your shoulders.  Make sure your straps are tight enough to provide support, but not so tight that they pull up your bra back.

2. Your cup size is too big.  Many women, with age, lose their breast volume along the tops of their breasts. This loss of volume along the top of your breasts creates an empty space in the top of your cup.  Without the cup being completely filled, the straps will tend to slip.  Either go down a cup size, or make sure you lift and place your breasts into your cups so that the cup is properly filled.

3. You’re using bra extenders.  A bra extender is an accessory that adds more length to the back of your bra.  I sell them at HerRoom, but I really don’t like them.  They can create additional problems, and shoulder straps falling off is one of them.  When you expand the length of the bra back, you move the straps farther apart and closer to the edge of your arms.  This increases the chances that your straps will fall off your shoulders.  Instead of an extender, consider going up a band size and down a cup size.  This will give you 2 more inches around your chest while keeping your cup volume the same.

4. Your bra back is not in the proper position.  I know we’re all in a hurry when we’re getting dressed in the morning.  But making sure you put your bra on correctly and getting it in the proper place is critical to your comfort the rest of the day.  The final thing you should do after putting your bra on is reach back and pull it down so that it’s under your shoulder blades and even with the front of your bra.  When you don’t do this, and your bra is left too high on your back, the front of your bra slumps, and the straps fall off.  I can’t tell you how many times suggesting this simple thing to women has solved their strap slipping problem.

5. Your bra band is too large.  Similar to the back extender problem, if your band size is too large, your straps will be further apart.  This too can cause your straps to fall off your shoulders.  A loose band also causes the back of your bra to hike up.  If you are experiencing both these symptoms, try going down a band size and up a cup size.  This will tighten your band size while keeping your cup volume the same.

6. Wrong bra style for you.  Not all bra styles are for everyone.  Women with very square shoulders can wear the popular bras with wide-set straps.  Women with slopping shoulders will have trouble.  Women with narrow shoulders need to carefully look at the strap placement to make sure they are not too far apart for her frame.  The bottom line is to know your body style and what styles do and do not work well.

Several manufacturers have worked hard to design bras to address this issue.  For example, several Olga and Olga’s Christina bras have what they call a "Comfort Back" design.  This back style brings the straps closer together in back and thus reduces shoulder slippage. 

Racerback bra styles are also an option.  However, there are a few issues with this style.  First, racerback bras tend to be front closure.  This is limiting in terms of adjusting for your best fit.  Additionally, racerback bras can cut close to the neck and provide pressure to neck tendons which can become sore after hours of wearing.  So, keep this in mind before selecting racerback bras.

Leotard back bras look like the back of a leotard, rather than a traditional t-back where the strap comes down and attach perpendicular to the garment.  This styling tends to give less slippage, but there are leotard back bras on the market that also slip.  So, you really need to look and see how close the straps come together in the back.

As you can see the bra back is very important.  Seeing how the bra back looks and fits will greatly help you in finding the right bra to solve your problem of slipping bra straps.  The good news is that HerRoom photographs every bra with a back view.  And, what’s even better is that while you are looking at a selection of bras at HerRoom, if you’ll scroll down, you will see a link underneath the collection of images called "click for back view."  When you click on this link, all the bra images on the page instantly change to a back view of the bras.  You can now swiftly shop for the bra with the desired back qualities that work for you. 

So, you don’t need to have slipping bra straps.  A simple evaluation of your needs and the selection of the correct bra will have you comfortable and content.

You can learn more about the bra strap problem in HerRoom’s Bra Fitting Problems & Solutions.

Find various strap and back styles at HerRoom in these departments:
Bras

Strange but true: the underwire in your bra can occasionally break.  Usually right in the center and without warning.  Why does this happen?  I know of a couple reasons for this phenomenon, but as every good researcher knows, you also need to ask the experts. I  put the question to several designers and experts in the industry.  What came back was rather enlightening.  There are a number of causes for underwire breakage. Here is a list of  the 7 reasons bra underwires break.

1. Washing your bra in the washing machine without a lingerie bag. – Now, we’ve all heard that we should stick our bras in a lingerie bag before throwing them into the washing machine.  But do you know why?  One reason is to protect the underwires. Without a lingerie bag, the wires can get caught in the agitator, stuck in one of the holes in the side of the drum, or get tangled up with another article of clothing.  All this this puts a stress on the underwire and causes it to break.
2. Putting your bra in the dryer. – The heat from a dryer can affect the chemical make-up of the steel in the underwire and cause it to become more brittle.  Additionally, if put your bra in the dryer without a lingerie bag, the wires can get caught in the dryer’s drum hole and be twisted into a shape that reduces its strength.  And, similar to what happens in the washer, your bra can also get caught on other clothes thus causing stress to the underwire and compromising its strength.
3. The metal used in less expensive bras may not be tempered (or heated) to the appropriate temperature and therefore is brittle and will break more easily. – My friend Ellen Jacobson – designer/owner of Elia bras – explained this to me.  Tempering is critical when making steel for underwires.  She went on to say that most underwire manufacturers have excellent product.  This usually becomes an issue when a manufacturer is trying to cut corners and buys their underwires from an unreliable source.
4. Round underwires break more easily than flat underwires. – Wire as we think of it is round.  If you hit it with a hammer, the shape becomes flatter.  Most underwires today are flat.  However, again, in less expensive bras, manufacturers may purchase round wire because it is cheaper since less production goes into molding round underwires.  You can quickly tell if an underwire is round or flat by simply feeling the underwire between your fingers.
5. Underwires without a plastic coating are more susceptible to breaking. – My good friend John Gilpin at Wacoal – America turned me on to this reason. As John explained, the better bras use underwires that have a plastic coating over the wires.  This coating smooths the edges and allows the underwire to slide more easily in its channel.  This movement reduces the chance of pressure or torque on the wire that could cause it to break.
6. Your bra band is too tight. – Underwires are designed to splay when the bra is worn.  This helps the bra to actually grab your breasts and give them support.  If your bra band is too tight, you are pulling the underwires apart farther than they are designed to be pulled.  This stress will eventually cause the wires to break.
7. Your cup is too small. – Underwires are designed with a certain volume of breast tissue in mind.  If you exceed that designed amount of mass, the underwire is again stressed and forced to splay beyond what it was designed to do.  This kind of pressure on the underwire over time will eventually cause the underwire to break in the center where the greatest pressure is being exerted.  The Le Mystere design team told me they’ve seen underwires under this kind of stress actually shred (rather than break cleanly) and create thin sharp shards of metal… ouch!

So what’s a girl to do?  Well, there are several precautions you can take to prevent underwires from breaking.  First, be careful how you launder your bras.  Ideally, they should be hand washed and hung to dry.  If you can’t do this, at least fasten the hooks and place your bras in a lingerie bag in the washing machine.  Never put your bras in a dryer.  It simply ruins them.

Next, make sure you are in the proper size bra.  There are more wire breaks because the cup size is too small than because the band size is too small.  A bigger cup size will capture more breast tissue and have a larger underwire to catch the sides of your breast more comfortably.  The wire will then anchor more smoothly in the breast crease without stretching to its eventual breaking point.  And, you get the added benefit of eliminating that pesky pinching feeling because your underwire won’t be as narrow and resting on top of your breast tissue.

Finally, get a good feel on your underwires.  Are they flat?  Also, If you can feel a sharp edge to them, they probably aren’t coated and will eventually saw through your bra and/or break.

Treat your bras with proper care, make sure you’re wearing the correct bra size, and buy quality bras.  This will reduce if not eliminate the chances of your underwires breaking.

The fitting guide on HerRoom has solutions to many more common bra fitting problems.

Find underwire bras at HerRoom in this department:
Bras